MOUNTAIN BERSERKER
Castor 4228 m
Normal route from Quintino Sella
Castor is a mountain of the Pennine Alps and is located on the border between Italy and Switzerland. At 4228 meters elevation, its peak rises above the Italian Gressoney valley and lies between Pollux (4092 m) and Lyskamm (4527 m), which are all connected to the Monte Rosa massif. Castor is one of the 82 peaks over 4000 meters elevation included in the UIAA list. The normal route of Castor starts from Quintino Sella refuge (3586 m), goes up the Felik glacier and joins the southeast ridge to reach the summit. It is a very popular route because it is easy, short and with spectacular views. It is rated F+ without any particular technical difficulties but the summit ridge is narrow and exposed on both sides. Anyone attempting this route should have solid cramponing skills, know how to self arrest as well as gear and knowledge for glacier travel.
1,2.The easy first part of the trail to Quintino Sella. Yellow marks of trail 9 are visible. 3.The final part of the ridge with ropes, steps and the bridge.
There are two options as starting points for climbing Castor. Staffal, at 1800 m elevation, is the highest village at the end of the road in the Gressoney valley. You can start from Staffal and reach Colle Bettaforca (2727 m) on foot by a long dirt road or take the lift up to there. Once you reach Colle Bettaforca, take the yellow marked trail 9 ascending to the north. The trail is quite straightforward and easy to follow and becomes more rocky with some steel steps later on. Once you reach the top of the narrow ridge there are more protected passages with steps, ropes and even a small bridge.
The view from Quintino Sella refuge towards Castor and Lyskamm. This is the entire route of the summit day.
The ridge ends at Quintino Sella refuge where you can spend the night or sleep outside in a tent. After the refuge the route enters the Felik glacier. From here on, proceed as a rope party with glacier gear. As with any glacier, there are crevasses to overcome but here they are not very wide and can be easily passed. Take a north-northeast direction until the route turns left (NW) and you reach the Colle del Felik (4061 m). You need about 2 hours from the refuge to the Colle del Felik. This is the first time when you will be able to see the view to the Swiss side. Colle del Felik is the highest mountains pass in the Alps.
The small plateau at Colle di Felik and the slope to the ridge.
Continue northwest, cross the small plateau and climb the steep slope until you reach the snow ridge. At this point the ridge becomes narrow and exposed to both sides. Be extra cautious when it gets windy up there and beware of cornices. After a short descent, you reach the final part of the ridge which widens a bit right on the summit of Castor (4228 m). From Colle di Felik to the summit you need 40 to 50 minutes.
The narrow but beautiful ridge of Castor.
The view from Castor is spectacular; high peaks, glaciers and valleys in every direction you look. To the east, Lyskamm is dominating, hiding almost all the peaks of Monte Rosa except Pyramide Vincent (4215 m). In the west, Breithorn (4164 m) with its big plateau, Pollux (4092 m), Matterhorn (4478 m) and Dent d' Herens (4171 m). Even more mountains can be seen in the north, that is entirely within Switzerland. You can see Dom (4545 m) and Weisshorn (4506 m) dominating opposite sides of the Mattertall valley. If you are not doing a traverse, the return to Quintino Sella refuge is done by the same route.
Summit views towards the Swiss side. Pollux and Breithorn are visible on the left. The most impressive peaks are the ones hidden by clouds...