MOUNTAIN BERSERKER
Breithorn 4164 m
Normal route from Cervinia
Breithorn is a mountain of the Pennine Alps and is located on the border between Italy and Switzerland. It is a sharp ridge that includes five summits over 4000 meters from the UIAA list, with Western Breithorn being the highest at 4164m. It's south-south-west flank route also known as the ''normal route'' has given Western Breithorn its reputation as one of the easiest 4000ers to climb. The ssw flank is very popular route not only because it is a simple glacier walk rated F+ (easy) but mainly because it can be accessed at 3900m by ski lifts. So it doesn't come as a surprise that many people choose Western Breithorn as their first 4000er before attempting something harder and higher like Mont Blanc. Τhe summit of Breithorn can be approached either from Zermatt (Switzerland) or Cervinia (Italy). Here I will describe the normal route and the approach from Cervinia. Anyone attempting the route should should be familiar with cramponing and self arrest techniques as well as knowledge and gear for glacier rescue. This description fits the summer climbing season for Breithorn, when it is most frequented.
Following this long dirt road will lead you to Theodul Pass and Teodulo refuge
Cervinia or Breuil-Cervinia is a small Italian town located in Aosta Valley. It is the northernmost italian town in the entire valley and lies near the border with Switzerland at 2000 m elevation. East of Cervinia at 3295 m elevation is the Theodul Pass, a high mountain pass that lies on the Swiss-Italian border and connects the Swiss Zermatt and the Italian Cervinia. Hiking to the Theodul Pass is the first step on the way to the summit of Breithorn. Starting from Cervinia, the easy and broad trail 15, passing through winter ski slopes and alpine meadows, leads to Theodul Pass in about 4h 10m. Once there, you can get some rest at the Teodulo refuge with great views towards Matterhorn and Breithorn and spend the night there to be ready for the summit day that follows.
The dominant view for most of the ascent route; Matterhorn. To admire the exact same view you will need to add around 40 minutes to your ascent to visit Lac de Goillet.
Even though Breithorn is a very crowded peak during summer season, the vast majority start climbing it from the highest lift station at 3889 m elevation. This means that only a few groups start from Theodul refuge and it is possible that you will have to find the way on your own up to a point. Routefinding on the summit day is very straightforward as for the most part it follows ski slopes on the glaciers. It is preferrable to start from the refuge at around 5 – 6 am. Start going downhill towards the Swiss side until you reach a long ski slope. From this point onwards, you will be walking on the glacial terrain so you will need to start using the rope and other glacier safety gear. Once on the ski slope, walk uphill up to the Guide del Cervino refuge, then turn left and follow the long flat ski slope which eventually becomes steep. Climb the steep slopes, then traverse to the left towards a small snow tunnel and after the tunnel continue on the ski slope until you reach its highest part. This section of the route takes about 2 hours.
The part of the route afterTheodul Pass and Teodulo refuge is following the ski slopes.
There, you will see a big plateau, the Breithorn Plateau at 3900 m elevation with the summit of Western Breithorn right in front of you. After reaching the plateau, the rest of the route up to the summit is clearly visible along with many 4000er peaks. Follow the wide boot-track trail made by the crowds to cross the plateau and then start climbing the SSW flank of Western Breithorn. The slope is not very steep with a maximum of 30° incline. After reaching the top of the slope turn right on the snow ridge and proceed with caution to avoid getting near cornices. The part from the start of the plateau to the summit takes 2h - 2h 30m.
The final part of the route leading to the SSW flank of Western Breithorn from the Breithorn Plateau. This part can be very crowded during summer season.
The view from the top of the Western Breithorn is great towards every direction. In the north, you can see the impressive and steep 4000er peaks of the Weisshorn and Mischabel massifs that surround Zermatt while in the northwest, the Matterhorn appears like a giant pyramid. What mostly captivates the eye lies in the east; The Monte Rosa massif with ten 4000er peaks visible and other hidden ones in between, is probably the best view from the summit of Western Breithorn. The return is done by the same route.
The view form the summit of Western Breithorn towards the Monte Rosa massif.